We drove along the Douro River on another narrow and winding road and soaked in the views of the river and hillsides. So far everywhere we go in Portugal is very hilly. We gradually drive up into the hills away from the river. We end up unknowingly following a caravan of cars. They pull over and we follow and the cars behind keep on driving. Doh! Once we hit the freeway the cars are just zooming by and I drive fast. Another thing about freeway driving is when they pass you they cut into your lane very close to the front of your car.
Hooray! Our GPS unit found our hotel in Porto! We are staying at i Stay Hotel I booked through hotels.com for an extremely cheap rate. We arrive around 11:30, but check in time is 15:00. We place our luggage in storage, get a map of Porto and the receptionist shows us the parking garage down the street where they have a deal with the garage for 8 Euros for a full day parking (major coup). Down to the basement to use the bathrooms. It is sunny and hot in Porto!
We park our car in the garage underground and learn that tomorrow (Sunday) it is only open between 10:00 -> 13:00. We find a small local coffee shop/bakery (Restaurante Bom Gosto 2) for a quick lunch. I order a Bitoque plate. The plate arrives with a thin slice of cheese and ham with french fries. A salad of lettuce and tomatoes and egg on top of a piece of steak. It was pretty decent. Lana has a craving for Italian so orders their spaghetti.
Picture of a giant flan (size of an Angel Food Cake) from the coffee shop.
Randy's lunch of Bitoque.
Our main goal for Porto was to visit their Port Lodges. Port Lodges are basically very dressed up port warehouses located across the river in the Vila Nova de Gaia neighbourhood. Historically, port wine was produced and sent from this city to Europe and the rest of the world via ships. The Douro Valley grows the grapes and makes the port wines and then ships them to Porto for aging, bottling and logistics. We love port wine so this is a perfect destination for both of us.
First though there are other sites to see in Porto. The central part of the city is Ribeira. It is a UNESCO protected heritage site. We eventually walked across the tall and long bridge and ended up where the Port Lodges are situated. Lots of walking.
Interesting faces.
Picture of a Portugese bakery offering.
Ribeira area of Porto.
Ponte de Dom Luis I that crosses the Douro River from Ribeira area (northside) to the Vila Nova De Gaia neighbourhood where you find all the Port Lodges.
View from Via Nova De Gaia westward towards the Ribeira.
Same view although it shows the Teleférico de Gaia Ride. We took this cable car (ski-like) from the river to the very top near the bridge. The ride costs us 5Euro each and ironically we shared our car with a fellow from Montreal who was here ahead of a convention. Impressive views from up very high.
We came across this "Chinese" restaurant in Porto. First time we have seen a Chinese restaurant in Portugal.
Just below the Pont de Dom Luis I bridge on the Ribeira side. Beautiful purple vines/flowers.
View from the Pont de Dom Luis I. Spectacular scenes and you are very high up in the middle (45 metres) of the bridge.
We visited the Catedral de Porto and Lana took a picture of light coming through a stained glass window high above the church floor and reflecting off a pillar.
We made it to Ferreira Lodge (recommended by the hotel clerk) and got two tickets (total 12Euro) for the 14:00 port wine tour/tasting in English. We had about 45 minutes after registering. We walked up the steep hill to Taylor's Port Lodge.
Picture at Taylor's Port Lodge drinking a white port and a a Vintage port from a specific vineyard. The total for these two pours was 5Euro. I look pretty sweaty as it was a very long uphill walk to make it to Taylor's. We love Taylor Floodgate port wines! Check out the old barrel as our table. We couldn't make their last english speaking tour as it conflicted with our Ferreira tour/tasting.
We had a great tour at Ferreira's Port Lodge as our tour guide was knowledgeable and professional. These are my notes:
- Established in 1851 by a lady owner
- The port grapes are grown exclusively in the Douro Valley given the type of climate and soil conditions and the mountains protecting the cold winds/weather from the Atlantic
- The schists offer excellent drainage
- The port wines are made in the Douro Valley and stay there for a year and are then shipped to Porto for aging. The reason is the Douro Valley is too hot to accommodate the aging.
- Port is more alcoholic that table wines due to the 'brandy' additive
- The 'brandy' or 'wine spirits' are neutral in taste and pure alcohol
- 20% of port volume is brandy additive
- Sweeter port wines only ferment for one day to ensure more sugar as during fermentation the natural sugar in the grapes turns into alcohol
- Ruby port is aged only in super large vats
- Tawny port is aged in the smaller casks/barrels, therefore, ages faster and the colour is lighter
- Old port wine casks are sold to age whisky
- "Reserve" ports age 7 years before bottling
- Port wines are actually different blends from different years except for Vintage ports
- All ports are filtered, therefore, ready to consume immediately except for two styles:
- Single Year Harvest LBV and Vintage wines are unfiltered and are both Ruby wines
- LBV port wines can keep up to 15 years and then you should drink them
- Vintage port wines are bottled in two years and can age for centuries. Best to wait at least 10 years before drinking. To be declared a vintage port wine year it must be an incredible year. 2011, 2003 and 2000 were the only years in the last 15 years.
- 1815 is the oldest vintage at Ferreira Lodge (200 years old!) and there are 40 bottles left
- To drink a vintage port, stand it up for at least two hours before opening so the sediment is in the bottom of the bottle and you must drink it within 2 days of opening the bottle
- a recent sale of an 1863 vintage port wine cost 1,850 Euros!
- $6,800 for the 1815 vintage bottle = one bottle only!
Gigantic Port vat!
Port tasting after the tour. The White Port was a medium dry and the Red Tawny Port was a Reserve. Deep red in colour. The white port makes a great aperitif. The guide shared a good cocktail recipe; one ounce of white port, fill glass with tonic and ice and add a lemon and voila! A huge bonus to the tasting was meeting a younger German couple from Hamburg. They told us about the FC Porto football match, otherwise, we wouldn't have known. Plus, it was fun talking to them about their experiences in Portugal.
We are in Room 2.1 at i Stay Hotel and for 40 Euro per night this is what you get for a bathroom. Capsule bathroom. You shower in the corner and the drain is underneath your sink. Ingenious. Very small, but clean and functional.
We walked to the Balhao subway station from our hotel to catch a subway train to the soccer stadium. Directions were provided by the Hotel desk clerk. About a 10 minute walk to the subway station and about 3Euro each for return tickets. You get off at Dragão station and you are right at the stadium.
Fortunately, we are right outside the ticket booths. Long lineups so we get in line. First people to come our way are the usual scalpers. They are trying to sell us 10Euro tickets for 30Euro each. Hmmmm, kind of a ripoff. We patiently wait in line for about 40 minutes to pay 20Euro each for tickets and miss about 12 minutes of the start of the game.
FC Porto scored while we were waiting for tickets. The cheer from the stadium crowd was amazing. Our seats are decent. The fans are really passionate. The opposition is in yellow jerseys = Estoril Praia team. At halftime we get to the concessions and there are many food choices; Bifana, ham sandwiches, roasted pork sandwiches, hot dogs, hamburgers, popcorn and various goodies. The food was very cheap. Their popcorn is like our kettle corn. Like everywhere else in Portugal they listen to American songs in english.
This was a very unexpected activity for our Portugal trip and so much fun! The subway ride was uneventful, we got tickets, good seats and then made it back quickly to our hotel room. We love watching European football so a great way to end our day in Porto.
This was a very unexpected activity for our Portugal trip and so much fun! The subway ride was uneventful, we got tickets, good seats and then made it back quickly to our hotel room. We love watching European football so a great way to end our day in Porto.
Outside of Estádio de Dragão stadium home to FC Porto. I have our tickets in hand. Very beautiful stadium and fairly easy to figure your way around. FC Porto wins 2-0 so everyone is happy.
The stadium from where we were seated in Section 38 Row 18. Blue & white team is FC Porto.
The incredibly loud and passionate supporters of FC Porto waving their flags, signing their songs, shouting their abuse and having a great time. So much passion! They stood for the entire game. Some of the female fans had blue lipstick!
When we came out of the Bolhao subway station this Church was looming above us. Check out the blue and white tiles which are so Portugese and again related to the occupation and influence of the Moors.
While walking back to our hotel room along the Mercado Bolhao we encountered these blue plastic tubes on the facade of a shopping mall.
We are back to our room before 21:00 so that is fantastic. Plus, on the way home we found an ATM and withdrew 200Euros each (maximum withdrawal in Portugal). The air conditioner is running and I am updating the blog. Lana's count for our walking today totals 13.5 kms. Much of that was some pretty steep hills. Another excellent day in Portugal. We met our goal of getting to a couple of the Port Lodges and exploring some of central Porto. Plus, attending a top calibre football match.
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