Our goal is to get to Pinhão, located east on the Douro River. It was recommended yesterday at the Quinta do Crasto to get a boat trip there as the views were much better than where we are staying.
This showed up on the dashboard of our rental car?
Our GPS unit was programmed with the exact satellite coordinates for Magnífico Douro and their vessels docked on the river. This worked as we were delivered by the GPS unit to the correct spot in this small town. YEH! As well, we drove along the Douro River rather than up in the winding and narrow hills above the river. It only took us about 20 minutes of a beautiful drive along the river.
We arrived early so went for a stroll along the river. I needed to use a washroom and found a public washroom. Of course, no toilet seat (ceramic toilet yes) and no toilet paper. Pretty typical for public toilet facilities in Portugal and other countries. At least they have some public facilities.
While we were waiting for the 10:45 start to the cruise, we made an appointment at Quinta do Portal for a winery tour and tasting to begin at 14:30. They have muscatel and white port in addition to table wines and more port.
Local guys fishing using a bobber and about three feet of leader with a small piece of bait. As well, they threw something in the water around their hooks to attract fish. No luck though.
We selected Magnífico Douro for our two hour boat ride excursion as they were highly rated and have english audio guides. We weren't sure about two hours versus one hour? At the conclusion of the boat trip we agreed that one hour would be sufficient. We saw the Douro from a different perspective being on the water. Well worth the cost and time. Relaxing...it was extremely hot if you decided to be in the direct sunlight.
This is some of what we learned, per my notes:
- our Rebalo boat was entirely made of wood
- railroad on the northside of the Douro River starts in Porto and goes to Spain
- 250,000 hectares of planted vines in Douro region
- shale and schist ground
- UNESCO World Heritage protected area
- 70 million litres of Port Wine produced each year
- also, grow almonds and olives
- Port comes in red, white and rosé
- a large number of Quintas and Port producers are located near Pinhão and east of this town
- one of the well known wineries uses gravity in their entire processing - no pumps
- 850 km long river in Spain and Portugal
- average of 4.5 metres of depth so not deep
- many olive trees on the hills and within the grape areas
Olive tree in Pinhão
Lana with her trusty umbrella in the sun. An "Asian" thing. Although it does keep the sun off her face and her skin youthful and cancer free.
Our boat is in the forefront tied up before departure.
Typical Rabelo boat on the Douro. Formerly used for transporting the grapes/wine to Porto downstream.
View from our boat to the hillside. Typical Portugese residences with white painted walls and red tiled roofs.
These vineyards run vertical. Many vineyard rows are horizontal.
Selfie of us enjoying the complimentary glass of red port wine.
After we disembarked at 13:00 we needed to get lunch and then drive north to Quinta do Portal.
Lana found a restaurant recommendation in our Lonely Planet guidebook for Ponte Romana Restaurante. We found parking and a short walk to this nicely furnished restaurant on a tributary that flows into the Douro. It looked like the entire restaurant was occupied by locals. We will not be back to this place again! Service was bad. They had english menus so that was good and our server spoke english. He took our order and then we watched as tables that arrived way after us getting served their lunch. It took about 30 minutes before our meal arrived. We figured these people were ordering the lunch special so it was easy to heat up and deliver? Anyway, that is always aggravating to wait so long and then see everyone else getting served. The topper was being charged 3.50Euro for a few pieces of bread that arrive on your table whether you ask or not. We believe they took advantage of us tourists. :-(
More Douro vineyards growing on steep hills and in the schist/shale formations.
These vineyards have a strange beauty.
We arrived at Quinta da Portal about 8 minutes early and they weren't ready. What an impressive designed winery! Apparently, it received a prestigious Douro Architecture Prize in 2010/2011 and Best of Wine Tourism 2012 in the Architecture and Landscape category. No doubt!
We had an excellent tour of the winery and I noted:
- Ruby port less aging needed than Tawny port
- White port is aged for four years
- they turn the barrels regularly to ensure the wine inside gets the same exposure to the wood
- their underground cellar has high humidity
- their red table wines are all aged in wooden barrels, but they actually age more in the bottles than in the barrels
- 2011 was a fantastic year in the Douro for wines
- when you open a bottle of Vintage port then you must drink it reasonably quickly
- Muscatel is fermented longer to reduce the sweetness (Muscatel is a fortified wine)
- Muscatel is fortified with a "wine spirit" from France and is 20% of the total volume - note that when they say port/muscatel is fortified with 'brandy' they mean a 'wine spirit' that is not the kind of brandy you buy in a bottle
Very cool architecture/design! Inside was exceptional as well. We walked up on the roof as we arrived early and it was covered in grass which keeps the humidity up in the storage room.
The barrel room. Mostly French oak.
This port wine barrel is 100 years old and still has 100 year old port wine. Check out the size of this wooden barrel!
Now, the most important feature is the wine tasting. In this case, you can taste three (3) wines, but you must order the same three wines. Cost is 5Euro each for wine tour/tasting, but if you buy a bottle then they waive the fee.
First bottle on the left is 2004 Portal Muscatel Reserva (7 years in the wooden barrel) and serve chilled. It was brilliant and we purchased a bottle for 15Euro. The taste in the middle was a White Port but mid-dry. We didn't like it as it was so dry. The pour on the right is a Portal Lágrima (4 years in oak barrel) and the perfect level of sweetness. We bought two (2) bottles of this white port at 7.70Euro each. Almost impossible to find white port in Canada.
The winding, narrow and steep road up to Quinta do Portal needed to be driven slowly and carefully. Especially with oncoming traffic. Even buses navigate these roads. Incredible! This is a view from the road back down towards Pinhão located below.
Another picture. Very beautiful scenery in the Douro!
By the time we arrived back at our hotel/winery it was only 45 minutes before the start of our 17:00 winery tour and tasting. Part of the package we paid for. The second winery tour and tasting today! Wow, it was quite a steep walk up to the actual Quinta do Vallado winery and we figure the temperature was in the mid-30s. Super hot. By the time we got started there were a number of guests on this tour. Our guide was very knowledgeable and excellent english. My notes:
- Architect decided to use black slate on the outside of the winery as the slate gets warm in the sun during the day and radiates the same heat during the night so constant temperature
- This winery uses as much gravity as possible to respect their grapes
- White grapes are placed in cold water to stop 'too early fermentation to start'
- no irrigation on their vineyards here except for rain (we think this is the same for all Douro vineyards)
- Port wine only ferments for 3-4 days to retain sweetness in the grapes and then add the brandy to fortify
- French oak barrels cost 1,000Euros each! When they retire the wooden barrels after about four years usage they sell for 450Euro
- Portugese wood comprises all their Port wine barrels
- A Port Wine receives the "Vintage" designation only after the Port Wine Institute declares this after tasting and testing and comparing.
- When you see a Port Wine as a 10 year, 20 year, 30 year or 40 year it means that is the average of the years aging before bottling. For example, they have 70 year old port they could blend with 20 year old port to make 40 year old port.
- These bottles will always be that age once bottled. In other words, aging in the bottle won't improve them. Once a 10 year always a 10 year.
Quinta do Vallado wine tour -> grape presser used when grapes first arrive.
The excellent tour was concluded with a wine tasting. We tasted a white wine, three red wines and a red port wine. They provided a piece of paper to make notes while doing each tasting. Our guide provided an informative summary of each wine after poured. Plus, they provided fresh water. We enjoyed all five of the wine we tasted. Also, got into a great conversation with a couple across from us who lived in Manhattan. We purchased a bottle of Red Wine comprised of 90% old vines. We can age it from 10-20 years. Plus, Lana bought a bottle of Extra Virgin Olive Oil made from olive trees on their property. We had this olive oil at dinner last night. The part that isn't so great for me is that gives up a spot in our wine purchases.
We brought 18 wine skins that will protect our wine bottles in our suitcases. As of tonight, we have 11 wine skins now occupied. This leaves only 7 wine skins and we haven't been to the Alentejo region yet!
Eventually, we drove into Peso da Régua for dinner. Hmmmm, the GPS unit didn't recognize the address of the restaurant Lana picked from the Lonely Planet guide. Grrrr! She checked Google Maps beforehand so that helped. We parked and started walking and did find the street in the opposite direction. We arrived at Restaurante Taverna do Jerere. There were only two tables occupied when we arrived around 19:45. English menu. One of the girls at our winery/hotel showed up with what looked like her parents. Then, two couples who were on the boat cruise today sat next to us. Parallel universe?
Regional starter appetizers of a local sausage with two different kinds of cheeses and then honey. Delicious. Cost 2.50Euro
We struck out a second time today in restaurants. Our food took so long to come to our table. We deliberately got our order in as quickly as possible (we're learning). Then, we asked in proper Portugese for our bill. Wow.... 10 minutes later no bill. Asked the server again and he indicated the "boss" was working on it. She was busy serving more customers. About 20 minutes after requesting the bill we actually got it. It was late and we were trying to get back to the room so I could get working on the blog before it got too late.
It is almost 23:00 and I am just finishing the blog for today. We are off to the city of Porto tomorrow morning for a day of exploring that city. We will miss the Douro Valley!
* Observation * We have found that the restaurants are not too busy before 20:30. After that time the tables begin filling up. Many diners don't sit until after 21:00 and in fact about 1/2 hour later. Plus, the odds are you will be given one menu only.
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